Water Heater Preventive Maintenance
Water heater preventive maintenance involves testing and changing the anodes, flushing the sediment build-up and checking/replacing the temperature and pressure relief valves. The below mentioned steps will help you extend the life of your water heater.
The most vital aspect of preventive maintenance is ‘retrofitting’. This can save you a lot of money which you might have had to spend on buying a new water heater along with the associated plumbing costs. Retrofitting involves changing the anodes when required, reducing sediment build-up and using other techniques which you can do at home yourself without calling a plumber.
The most important part of retrofitting is replacing the water heater anode before it is completely consumed or adding a second anode to the water heater. It is advisable to add a flush kit and regularly flush you water heater if you live in a hard-water area. The second part of retrofitting is checking and replacing the temperature and pressure relief valves frequently. These valves are prone to failure but are easily and cheaply available.
Checking and occasionally replacing the sacrificial anode rod will extend the life of your water heater. These rods corrode gradually and protect the exposed steel inside the water heater. Their rate of corrosion varies greatly across the country and mostly depends on the water quality. However, it can be safely assumed that they do not last longer than five to six years. The anode will require more frequent replacements in case you soften your water as the salt speeds up the corrosion process. Magnesium anodes are preferred over aluminium ones as they are less reactive and protect the tank better. Aluminium rods generate a lot of sediment as a by-product of corrosion which layers at the bottom of the tank.
If you live in a hard water area, you will face a lot of sediment build-up no matter how frequently you flush your tank or follow other water heater maintenance procedures. This is because the minerals in hard water settle at the bottom when heated. This happens mainly because the bottom is dome shaped. When you flush the tank, the sediment remains there while all the water drains out. This causes a lot of trouble such as burning out the element, slowing heat transfer, etc…
The only thing that works with the sediment build-up is the curved dip tube. The original dip tubes in your water heater which bring cold water to the bottom of the tank for heating are straight. By replacing it with a curved dip tube and a brass ball-valve drain assembly, you can make sure the sediment always drains out with the water. The dip tubes in general are weak and break easily. So check them first the next time you feel your water heater is not properly providing hot water.
The temperature and pressure relief valves can be installed in different ways and you might require the services of a plumber if you decide to replace them. If it has been installed with thread seal tape, it will easily unscrew from the tank. However, it may be installed with soldered copper piping or through a wall outside. In this case, the drain line will have to be cut before you can unscrew the temperature and pressure relief valve. To test that it is working properly, pull on the handle, hold it for a few seconds and let go. Water should flow through when you raise the handle and stop when you let go. In case the valve doesn’t let water through or won’t stop running or keeps dripping, it requires a replacement.
This concludes water heater preventive maintenance. Regularly check your water heater for leaks or other faults as they can cause a lot of damage if left unattended.
Even though all information in this post is accurate to the best of our knowledge, it is our strong opinion that only a professional should perform maintenance activities on hot water heaters. Click here to get FREE Water Heater Maintenance Quotes